[ from early may, mexican coding bunker, cruz azul, mexico ]
The 10-Days Real Mexico
The Real 10 Days Mexico lows on burritos and highs on tacos. It's where the fear is thick and the crime is real. All the women are beautiful, some are Indian, and most are in high school.
It's okay though, generally, because it's the Real 10 Days Mexico and everybody buys hot tortillas and wraps them in homebrought towels and there's six* kinds of mangos in the market and it's not sepia like Traffic told me (at all!) but rather a scrubby grey green of contaminated air and tall trees and cigarettes at the end of the line, time.
Though in the Real 10 Days Mexico there is a lot of all kinds of traffic and lana* and corruption and the police on horseback bid me halt to talk Buddhism for an hour so you can be sure nobody's really evil like a mestizo version of that Fine Balance. And even though everyone in the ads is white the taco women are brown and bold and sharp enough and here neither in the Real 10 Days Mexico is there a bad mango and so what if the children in general are fat. It's from the cheese and the closeness to that wide parched border, gateway of endless slurping desire.
Because in the Real 10 Days Mexico they celebrate 16 September and leave 5 Mayo for the gringos along with the tortilla chips and twister tequila rituals. I mean they have Margaritas but it's more the Micheladas* that make them sing, but at least the guacamole is real, 10 Days Mexico Real, and even the half-Mexicans you meet know how to make it good.
The restaurants are expensive and generally empty and the peasants are poor and the politicians bathe in their salty impunity as we all imagined anyways. So some things change and some things don't but it's real true the girls smile and brush against you between stalls in the market or football field or wherever it is that you are, and well that's what holds it together, for me, after these Real 10 Days.
[editors notes --
* actually eight. there may be other mistakes or prejudices
* meaning wool. but really, graft, bribery, personal gain
* with worcestershire sause, not just salt lime and chile